NEWBIE (START HERE)

Individuals who are new to airsoft and don't know where to go or what to do, START HERE

Main Spring Velocity Test
** Some popular springs with corresponding FPS(Feet Per Second) ratings:

Systema:
1 Joule - 310 f.p.s.
M100 - 365 f.p.s.
M120 - 395 f.p.s.
M120S - 440 f.p.s.

Prometheus:
MS90SP - 315 f.p.s.
MS100SP - 340 f.p.s.
MS110SP - 390 f.p.s.
MS120SP - 440 f.p.s.

Guarder:
SP85 - 313 f.p.s.
SP90 - 335 f.p.s.
SP100 - 395 f.p.s.
SP110 - 425 f.p.s.
SP120 - 440 f.p.s.

KM:
90M - 318 f.p.s.
100M - 343 f.p.s.
120M - 396 f.p.s.
130M - 422 f.p.s.
140M - 450 f.p.s.

PDI:
120% - 330 f.p.s.
130% - 370 f.p.s.
140% - 380 f.p.s.
150% - 335-355 f.p.s.
170% - 380-410 f.p.s.

Angel:
120% (85-95m/s) - 318f.p.s.
130% (95-110m/s) - 343 f.p.s.
140% (110-125m/s) - 430 f.p.s.

Top Power:
150% - 385 f.p.s.
170% - 415 f.p.s.
190% - 455 f.p.s.

AEG rifle parts

What parts can be upgraded in your AEG? In a normal AEG many parts that can be changed or upgraded. Here is a list them and what they do.

1. Hop Up Bucking is the part that puts back spin on the bb. Marui guns come with decent ones but other companies make better ones. Systema, Guarder, prometheus and Fire Fly are the best. Fire Fly makes a special one with 3 nubs in the bottom to create a better spin.
2. Hop Up Chamber. The Hop Up Chamber is changed for more consistency. The stock plastic ones in Marui guns are ok but are not as good as ones made by Prometheus and Systema.
3. Barrel. Some people change to barrels longer or tighter then their stock ones. The tighter the barrel the better. Dont get one too tight if you use bad quality BBs or it will jam. Most AEGs come stock with 6.08mm diameter barrels. Systema make 6.04mm, Star make 6.05mm, Guarder make 6.04mm, prometheus make 6.03mm, Deepfire makes 6.04mm, Madbull makes 6.03mm (but are bad quality), Dees Custom make 6.01mm, and PDI the best make 6.01mm from steel.
4. Spring. The stronger your spring, the higher the velocity the piston can be forced forward at. Don't fit a high powered sping with standard internals as you are likely do damage the gears or piston. Guarder and PDI springs are best. Systema can crack easily but prometheus is also good. Most springs besides PDI are rated in metres per second, so a M100 spring is 100 metres per seconed or 328 feet per second.
5. Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping into the gear case. Marui guns come with platsic guides as standard but Guarder, Systema and prometheus make steel ones. If it has spacers it will increase your muzzle velocity.
6. Cylinder. The cylinder is the area in which the air is compressed before being forced down the barrel. Bigger cylinders let you use a longer barrel. You can also get telfon-coated cylinders which will give a slight increase of Rate Of Fire (ROF), to my knowledge about 100 rounds per minute. This part isn't upgraded much as most guns come with good ones. For a budget gun one get a teflon coated Area 1000 cylinder.
7. Cylinder Head. Changing this part is either to silence your gun (if you get a Systema or Angel damped head)or to get a better air seal.
8. Air Nozzle. The air nozzle is the part that pushes the bb into the Hop Up Chamber. It is also needed to seal the airflow from the cylinder head to the BB, so some have internal 'O' rings like Guarder.
9. Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. It is essentially a flat-toothed gear. It is wound back by the motor and then forced forward at high speed by the spring, compressing the air in front of it. It therefore is subject to tremendous pressure. Metal pistons are good for Semi-Auto AEGs but if fired in Full Auto they may strip the gears. G&P, Guarder and Deep Fire make good ones. Prometheus is OK with some mods.
10. Piston Head. The piston head seals the air into the cylinder. You can get good and bad ones. Classic Army and most clones generally have poor piston heads. You can also get silent ones to quieten your gun and bearing ones to increase the muzzle velocity. G&P and Systema make good ones.
11. Gears. The gears are a very important and expensive part of the rifle. Don't be tempted to buy cheap gears, as you will probably end up paying a lot more to fix the gearbox when they break. If you are upgrading to high powered springs or hi-speed/torque motors opt for steel gears. If you want high ROF you can buy high speed gears from Prometheus, Systema and Guarder. Systema , Guarder and Prometheus make high torque as well. Most of these are helical which means the teeth are at a angle. If you use these you need a half toothed piston. They are also harder to shim correctly. You have 3 gears, the sector, bevel and spur gears.
12. Bushings. The bushes keep the gears in places and are what the gears rotate on. If they break the gears will probably strip. The bigger the bushing the better. Most guns ship with plastic 6mm bushes fitted. If you upgrade go for metal bushes and if you are looking for higher ROF or torque, get a new gearbox casing that will 7mm or 8mm bushes.
13. Shims. The shims are used to keep the gears aligned and correctly meshing. Incorrect shiming will lead to increased gear wear or failure.
14. Tappet plate. The tappet plate pulls the air nozzle back to let the BB in. If it snaps your gun will not feed.
15. Selector Plate. This part rarly breaks. It can be upgraded for more electrical stability.
16. Anti-Reversal Latch. This latch stops the gears from spinning backwards and damaging the gun. Systema and Prometheus make aftermarket items.
17. Cut Off Lever. This stops the gears so you can fire Semi-Auto. If it does break or wear you will only have Automatic fire.
18. Trigger mechanism. If you fire too much on Full Auto the mechanism can burn out and your gun will cease to fire. Systema and Guarder make aftermarket versions. Keep the contacts clean to avoid short-circuits.
19. Sector Chip. Guns don't come stock with these but they essentialy keep the tappet plate back longer so the BBs feed betterg. They have no negative side effects and will not break.
20. Motor. You can opt for hi-speed or torque. Don't put hugely powerful motor in a standard gun and hope it will work. You will stip the gears or piston. The Systema Magnum and Turbo are excellent. The G&P M120 High Speed is also good.
21. Battery. The higher the voltage , the higher your ROF will be. The higher the Milliampere-Hour rating (mAH), the more BBs you can fire per charge (as a rule of thumb for a fairly standard gun, 1 mAH = 1 shot).Intellect, G&P, Sanyo and Elite are great. Most chinese guns come with poor batteries. Do not go for the highest power battery you can find straight away, as the voltage may be too high for your current setup and may damage components. Search the net and airsoft forums for advice on battery selection.

bolt action rifle parts

1. Barrel. The tighter the barrel the better your accuracy and consistency will be. PDI, Laylax and Dees Custom make them. Marui also makes a precision barrel and chamber set which is quiet good.
2. Hop Up Rubber. The Hop Up Rubber gives the BB back-spin increasing the range and accuracy. GET A GOOD ONE. Nine Ball and FireFly make good ones.
3. Piston. The piston compresses the air in the cylinder. Some have air brakes which silence the gun but this reduces the power. The lighter and stronger your piston the better.
4. Spring. The stronger the spring, the faster the piston is forced forward, and the higher the muzzle velocity. Get a good quality one. Laylax make great ones.
5. Hop Up Chamber. Most clone and chinese guns come with poor chambers. Getting a good one will greatly improve accuracy. The Marui precision one for the VSR-10 is excellent.
6. Piston head. The piston head forces the air into the barrel, propelling your BB. For the VSR-10, PDI and Laylax make good ones.
7. Spring Guide. This stops the spring from jumping about. Most guns come with plastic ones. Get a metal one and it will last longer.
8. Cylinder. If you get a teflon or polished cylinder you will have a easier bolt pull. Teflon on your cylinder means you don't need to lube it.
9. Bolt Handle. If you have a big bolt handle it will be easier to cock your gun. Guarder makes them for the L96 and APS2. PSS10 makes them for the VSR-10.
10. Trigger sear. Don't be tempted to get a cheap trigger sear. If you fit a very strong spring change your trigger sear. It keeps the gun cocked. If it breaks your gun will not cock.
11. Piston sear. Catches the piston and is supported by the trigger sear. Has a lot less strain put on it than the Trigger sear.
12. Spring Guide Stopper. Keeps the cylinder in place. You should also this upgrade when increasing the muzzle velocity.
13. Trigger mechanism. The best triggers are zero trigger. They require only a light trigger pull and are very strong. Comes with a spring guide stopper, piston seat and trigger seat.

HOW to upgrade.

This section explains how to upgrade a stock Marui AEG. The authors take no responsibilty for any damage to you gun caused by following these instructions. You do so at your own risk!

Required Parts

1. 328 fps - M100 or SP85-SP90 spring, steel bushings (any 6mm will do) and Systema shims.
2. 400 fps - Many people say you don't need new gears but I think you do. M120 spring, steel bushings, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide and Guarder steel gears.
3. 450 fps - G&P piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Guarder steel gears, steel bushings, G&P piston head.
4. 500 fps - You essentialy have a sniper rifle. You will want a longer barrel (509mm) and something to house it, Fire Fly hop up bucking hard, half tooth piston, Systema shims, Guarder steel spring guide, Prometheus torque up helical gears, G&P piston head, Systema Magnum motor, Area 1000 Type 0 teflon cylinder, Guarder cylinder head, Guarder air nozzle, 7mm mech box case, 7mm bushing.

I do not recommend you go any to a higher velocity. You should also opt for 9.6v or 10.8v battery.

Opening a Marui M-series gun (The M-series refers to the M16 A1, M16VN, M16A2, R-16, M4 RIS and the M4.)

1. Remove the magazine. Fire your gun 3 times in Semi-Auto upside down to ensure there are no BBs in the chamber. Remove the battery.
2. Remove the stock. If it is a full stock just remove the 2 screws on the butt plate and it should come off right away. If it is a folding stock you need to remove the sliding part. To do this pull down on the lever and slide it off. Then remove the hex screw on the bottom of the plate and take the cap off with some pliers (this will require some force). Unscrew the screw on the inside with a long philips head screw driver.
3. Remove the back pin on the reciever and pull the reciever apart (this will require force). Don't break the taps. Now remove the front pin and pull everything apart. Apply a small amount of grease to the tabs for easier opening.
4. Remove the magazine release by unscrewing it and pushing it through. Reassemble the magazine release out side of the gun to aviod losing any parts.
5. Pull out the pin in the middle of the receiver.
6. Remove the plate on the bottom of the pistol grip by unscrewing two small screws.
7. Slowly lift it off.
8. If there is a metal disc on the motor continue with the next step. If not, remove the 2 wires connecting the motor to the gun and simply yank it out with pliers. If you couldn't find the metal disc on top it will be on the motor because it is a magnet. Put the disc on the motor plate.
9. Remove the 3 small screws on the base. This is really difficult to do so just keep trying.
10. Pull out your gear box and, if you want to, put it all back together.

How to change the barrel, hop up rubber or hop up unit.

1. Split the receiver by removing the back pin then pulling it apart.
2. Remove the front pin and separate the lower receiver from the upper receiver.
3. Pull out the barrel and hop unit.
4. You will find a small spring on the hop up unit. If you don't, look around that area and shake it until you find it.
5. Remove the plate attached to the hop up unit by pulling it off. Pull out the barrel and hop up rubber.
6. Now you can change any of the parts you want.

How to open a Version 2 gear box and upgrade your Marui gun to about 320 fps.

What you will need:

1. Systema or other airsoft brand shims.
2. 6mm bushes.
3. A spring rated for 320 fps. A Systema m100, Prometheus m100, Guarder SP90 should be ok.
4. Airsoft grease (not car grease!). Lithium grease or G&P grease.
5. Philips head screw driver set
6. Torx screw driver set

Process

1. Remove the V2 gearbox from your gun.
2. Ii there is a wire guide on the front of your gearbox directing the wires to the front, remove it with a screw driver.
3. Remove all the torque and hex screws from the shell.
4. Put a screw driver in the back of the gearbox through the spring guide and put pressure on it whilst you pull open the case.
5. If when you open the shell and the spring guide jumps out at you, remove the spring and spring guide as well as the piston.
6. Remove the gears and the anti-reveral latch. It doesn't matter if anything falls off the like bushes and shims, just not the teeth! (That would only happen if they were broken).
7. Remove the stock bushes and put your new ones in. Make sure they're a tight fit.
8. Shim the gears. Make sure the gears are correctly aligned and rotate well but don't move when you close the case. Put your gears and the anti-reversal latch back in place.
9. Remove your piston, spring and piston head.
10. Remove the piston head by unscrewing it with a rag and pliers.
11. Put your new spring in and re-attach the piston head.
12. Reinstall everything. Shut the gearbox . This will require a bit of effort but you'll get there eventualy. Put it in your gun and enjoy!


REMINDERS
*** Get all the reinforcement parts you need for a certain power spring. It will save you money eventually because you won't have a bunch of parts break from too much stress.
*** Get a replacement upgrade hop up first. It will increase the consistency of your shots. A tightbore barrel should be second to improve accuracy. Increasing FPS before either of these steps will actually hurt the gun's performance. After that, higher FPS can give you more range and of course power.


WARNINGS

*** Make sure you take apart the gearbox in a place where you will not lose any parts. You might want to take pictures at the different stages so you can remember how it goes back together.

by BISIG, CODEHAXOR, ICARUS and ELKAPITANSKI

AEG
AEG or Automatic Electric Gun is widely used to describe the most common airsoft gun.

ACM
All China Made AEGs are called ACM's.

Anti-reversal
The anti-reversal latch is part of the gear system inside the mechbox. Designed to keep the gears from "unwinding" under pressure, the latch catches against notches on the bevel gear.

[b]The anti-reversal latch is designed to keep the gears from unwinding completely while under pressure from the main spring. Imagine if you are firing and stop while the spring is half-way compressed...all that energy would cause the box to go into reverse and "unwind".

Combine the energy of that reverse with the force of a motor trying to go in the opposite direction at the same time. The combined force would definitely break a gear or some other part.

This is why really rapid full auto bursts can lead to internal damage. If the gears haven't had time to catch the anti-reversal latch before you pull the trigger again...you're applying more than twice the force to the internals as the "unwinding" pressure collides with the forward motion of the motor.

BB
The most common airsoft projectile. Most airsoft guns use 6mm diameter ammunition. There are some models which use 8mm.

Chronograph
Chrono: A chronograph measures the trajectory of a projectile (in this case the BB) usually in Feet Per Second or Meters Per Second.

FPS
FPS is an abbreviation for Feet Per Second, which is the standard method by which most airsoft players measure the speed of their BBs or performance of their AEGs.

Check out the Airsoft Spring Comparison Guide to see what FPS can be gained from upgrade springs.

GBB
GBB is commonly used to describe a gas powered airsoft gun - more specifically a Gas Blow-Back.

Magazine
Magazine is the CORRECT term for describing the device holding BBs which inserts into and feeds a gun. (Clips are used to feed a magazine)

mAH
mAh or "maww" = Milliamp Hours. A unit for measuring electric power over time. mAh is commonly used to describe the total amount of energy a battery can store.

A higher mAh rating means the battery can power a device that comsumes more power and/or for a longer amount of time. For example, a battery rated at 1500 mAh can power a device drawing 100 milliamps for 15 hours, or a device drawing 150 milliamps for 10 hours.

Mechbox
Mechbox: Short for mechanical box, mechbox is the common term used to describe the case that contains the gears, springs, electrical components, etc. that power an AEG.

Rate of Fire (ROF)
(ROF) The rate of fire is the rate of which BBs are expelled from the barrel of the airsoft gun. The higher the rate of fire the more BBs will be fired in a period of time.

Real steel
Real steel: A commonly used term when referring to actual firearms or real guns.

Reversal stop latch
The anti-reversal latch is part of the gear system inside the mechbox. Designed to keep the gears from "unwinding" under pressure, the latch catches against notches on the bevel gear.

The anti-reversal latch is designed to keep the gears from unwinding completely while under pressure from the main spring. Imagine if you are firing and stop while the spring is half-way compressed...all that energy would cause the box to go into reverse and "unwind".

Combine the energy of that reverse with the force of a motor trying to go in the opposite direction at the same time. The combined force would definitely break a gear or some other part.

This is why really rapid full auto bursts can lead to internal damage. If the gears haven't had time to catch the anti-reversal latch before you pull the trigger again...you're applying more than twice the force to the internals as the "unwinding" pressure collides with the forward motion of the motor.

Springers
Springers are spring powered airsoft guns that are usually hand operated or "pumped".

Stock
Stock can refer to any one of these descriptions:

1. Stock gun: An unmodified (not upgraded) AEG or other gun.

2. Shoulder Stock: The portion of a rifle usually pressed against the shoulder when aiming or firing

3. Gun stock: Usually any other part than the mechanical, barrel or reciever components. (i.e.: the forward grip of a rifle and the shoulder stock are both parts of the generic "gun stock")
Commonly used abbreviation for Western Arms.

Western Arms is best known for manufacturing high quality airsoft pistols (especially the 1911 or .45ACP models)

TM
TM: Commonly used abbreviation for Tokyo Marui
Tokyo Marui is the most famous AEG manufacturer (Japan)

CA
Classic Army, another AEG maker based in Hongkong.

JG - Jing Gong Popular ACM brand of AEG's said to be the clone of the popular High-End AEG Tokyo Marui...

HICAP
Hi-Capacity magazine

Gearbox
Same with mechbox

Zombie /s
A person / persons who dont call themselves out even if they are already hit

Marshall
Group of persons who keep the game in order during tournaments...or in other sport REFEREE

PTW - Professional Training Weapon made by Systema in 2003 intended initially for military training purposes . . .highly souped-up M-16, to be considered then as the king of all AEGs

thanks to sirs BISIG, CODEHAXOR, ICARUS and ELKAPITANSKI

by: sir BISIG

Capture the flag
Two teams play against each other and try to take the other team's flag back to their on base (or flag). The flag has to be carried so that it is clearly visible. This game can be played in two variants: "Live Flag" or "Dead Flag". In Live Flag the flag is dropped if the Flag carrier is shot, and another player can pick the flag up. In "Dead Flag" the Flag carrier has to return the Flag to the enemy's base upon elimination before the Flag can be taken again.

Last man standing/elimination
All against all in a game often with limited time and area.

Escort/president
One team has to escort an unarmed (or in some cases, a very lightly armed)person to a certain location or objective point to win. There is another team who tries to kill the escort or the whole team. Usually the attacking team hides while the escort team travels along a normal path.

Speed, or CQB (close quarter battle)
ndoor versions of many games. Often played in a big house or in many houses. They also can be in a small wooded area. Handguns and low-end electrics are normally used.

Demolitions
In this game there are two bases, and an object to represent a satchel charge. The charge is placed in the middle of the field between the two bases. One team begins in each base. The goal is to take the charge to the enemy's base. When the charge reaches the enemy's base and remains untouched by the enemy for 2 minutes (depending on rules), the enemy loses. If the charge carrier is eliminated anyone can pick up the charge.

Hostage rescue
There are two teams: the Guards and another team divided into the Hostages and the Rescuers. The hostages are typically placed in different locations. The rescue team can carry extra weaponry to the hostages. The hostages can attempt to flee but are then subject to elimination.

Prison break
A small team of players (the prisoners) shall travel through an area that is guarded by the majority of players. The prisoners may not have any big weapons or support weapons. The guards can have whatever they choose. Each prisoner that reaches the goal is considered a winner.

Commando raid
A small group is the commandos. The rest of the players are divided to guard the objectives. Each objective should be guarded by the same amount of guards as the commandos are. The commandos are taken to a small zone outside the game area. This is their Insertion and Extraction Point. When the commandos have finished with the mission, at least 1/3 has to return to this zone or they cannot win. The commandos are informed that they have to reach a point in the game area, the "Drop zone", where they will find information about what target they should attack and find the Flag. When they have taken the Flag from the objective they should leave the "Flag" at the "Drop Zone" and then return to the Extraction Point. There should be a time limit. The guards can barricade themselves and send out patrols, but not leave the objectives unprotected.

thanks to sir BISIG

Optional Airsoft rules
by: sir DOMENG

The following rules are optional ones that you may or may not want to use in your Airsoft games.

Medics:
One player on each team can be designated as a medic and this person has the ability to 'resurrect' players once during a game, allowing them to return to play. When using medics in your Airsoft games it's important to remember to stay lying on the ground where you were 'killed'. The medic has to get to you and touch you in order for you to be 'resurrected'. If you are standing in or on unsafe terrain such as water, mud, broken glass, etc. then you are allowed to lie down near where you were hit so that you don't hurt or endanger yourself.

Multiple lives:
Sometimes it's beneficial to allow players more than 1 life when playing games. This allows a larger variety of scenarios to be played with fewer players present. For instance a few players with 2 lives each could be defending a bunker/structure from 6 or more attackers that have only 1 life each for the game. This allows the defenders to stay in the game longer. When a player that has multiple lives gets hit he calls himself out as normal but instead of just saying 'hit!' he should say 'first hit!'. This lets everyone know that he isn't dead yet. This player now has 30 seconds that he cannot shoot or be shot at. Any shots at this player at this time do not count. The player can use this time to get to better cover but he cannot use it to run towards an attacker and he is only allowed to get behind the nearest cover available to him. This prevents unusual situations from occurring where a player with multiple lives gets hit and during his 30 seconds decides to run directly towards his attackers and to use cover behind them, etc.

Damageable weapons:
Some people prefer to play that if a weapon is struck it cannot be used for the rest of the game. This prevents people from pointing just their weapon around a corner and firing blindly, which can be VERY dangerous to those playing the game. Obviously, if a player that only has a single Airsoft weapon gets his weapon hit then he is considered 'killed' because he has no further use in the game.

Locational damage:
If you are playing with people that you trust (i.e. good friends) then you may want to try this slightly more involved system for damage. Instead of a player being considered 'killed' if he is hit anywhere on the body this optional rule allows players to remain playing in a 'crippled' capacity as long as they aren't hit in a Vital region. Hits to the Head, Neck, Chest, Stomach, or back are considered vital areas and you are 'killed' as normal if you are hit in one of these areas. Hits to the arms or legs force you to not be able to use them until the end of the current game. A second hit to an already damaged arm or leg means you are considered 'killed' as normal. A hit limb CANNOT BE USED FOR ANYTHING AT ALL. This means that if your leg is hit you must hop or crawl, if your arm is hit you aren't allowed to brace yourself on it, open doors with it, hold your gun with it, etc. It must hag limp or be tucked against your body. You can see why this rule can only really be used with friends that you trust because it's very difficult to enforce.

No head hits:
Some groups play that head hits don't count in order to discourage players from shooting at each others faces. This is mostly for safety reasons.

1. Safety First on the playing field (warzone)
- No Real Firearms
- No players are allowed if under the influence of Drugs or Alcohol
- No goggles, no play
- Maximum Velocity for CQB 328 fps; Sniper 500 fps. (all using .20g BBs)
- Never take off your eye/ face protection
- Must be atleast 18 years of age
1.1. Standard Safety Gun Rules
- Consider every gun loaded
- Never point the gun to anybody/ anything you do not intend to shoot
- Keep your finger off the trigger until you fire
- Be sure of your target and what is around it
- Be courteous

2. One-hit Elimination
- Direct line to body
- Penetrating shot
- Friendly Fire
- Knife kill
- Ask to surrender within 5 meters
- No Ricochet

3. No Hit Call/Calling
- Shooter cannot call opponent out
- Hit players to acknowledge by shouting HIT, DEAD, or OUT
- After being acknowledged as "Hit", raise your gun/ arm over your head while going to the neutral zone

4. No hostages
- No hiding behind non-combatants
- No mixing with non-combatants
- No engaging in proximity of delicate or valuable property

5. No holding or grappling
- No rough physical contact between players
- No holding on to opponent or opponent's gun

6. Avoid Inflicting Unnecessary Pain
- Avoid point-blank shooting, ask for surrender
- Avoid blind-fire
- Immediately stop shooting players signifying hit

7. Dead men tell no tales
No coaching from any non-combatants (umpires, eliminated players, spectators, bystanders, etc)

8. No time out
- Player must overcome equipment malfunction or temporary difficulty without calling "time out", otherwise player must eliminate him/ herself from the game.

9. Marshall's/Umpire's decision is final

10. Observe proper decorum at all times

Thanks to (alphabetical order) Almighty, BAMF, Big_Wolf, Boyscout, Brixman, Firescythe, hottrax, Insertion09, jedi, mai2brutal, Messenger, Night Thrasher, ricochet, Spud8, and Warhamster

want to learn more/post your QUESTIONS here:
http://www.filairsoft.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13415


more on the ART of airsoft....
by sir POLAR BEAR

what most newbies don't realize is that most veterans hate irresponsible people with strong guns....

irresponsible = inexperienced

just like in martial arts, all newbies must undergo a certain period of time to develop certain skills....

this is not like instant coffee or instant mami, where you just add water....

there is just no substitute for experience, folks....

so here's some tips to help us develop our skills for proper airsoft gaming:

GET INTIMATE WITH YOUR GUN
plinking in your spare time is a very good way of practicing your practical shooting skills.... instead of just plinking a soda can, you don't practice firing your gun using different positions?

this is also a good time to determine your gun's maximum range.... just knowing your gun's FPS is not enough because you only get a THEORETICAL max distance.... you need to know the ACTUAL max range of your gun.... so borrow your neighbor's tape measure, and see how far you can hit that soda can....

tinkering with your sights is also highly recommended.... you should be able to zero in your sights.... and you should be very confident as to where your BBs will go when you fire your guns.... so when you shoot your opponents, you are sure 95% of the time that you will hit their helmets or vests....

GET YOUR NAKED EYES FIXED
fixed on distance, i mean practice "reading" the distance between you and your target with just your eyes.... for example, my "friendly" spetz' maximum range is when i see my opponent's head as small as a lanzones! on the other hand, if you can read your opponent's name patch, then you are in point-blank range! :eek: ouch!

GET YOUR FINGER OFF THE TRIGGER
yep, most newbies fire their guns like their fingers are glued to their triggers! lighten up, dudes and dudettes.... we're not trying to kill godzilla here, we're just trying to have a good time with airsoft....

practice firing in bursts.... 3 or 4 shots per burst is good.... burst firing may not be technically advisable (mas madaling masisira ang gun daw), but you'll be gaining new friends naman....

of course, exception to the rule here is fire suppression.... for covering fire so that my teammates can flank our opponents, i tend to give 'em a BB rainshower! my goal is to empty my mags in 5 seconds flat!

GET A REALITY CHECK
this is the hardest part for newbies.... accepting the fact that we are all newbies in airsoft!

the real difference between newbies and veterans:

veterans know they can be "killed" in the first 10 seconds of a game.... they also know that they cannot "kill" all tangos in sight.... so if opponents are not shouting hit, then in all probability they are not being hit.... para sa mga beterano, kapag hindi umaamin ang kalaban, malamang hindi kasi tinatamaan.... :cool:

most newbies think they are incarnations of John Rambo or FPJ.... and think they can "kill" all opponents they shoot at.... and so they resort to hit-calling....

pag hindi umaamin, malamang bano lang tayo....

being able to fire in controlled bursts, and being confident enough to really hit your targets, and most of all, to accept the reality that we are not perfect airsofters.... these are the skills and mindset that will elevate our game to "veteran moves"....

hope this helps....

by sir POLAR BEAR

let's talk about battle dress uniforms (BDUs) and the loadup gears we put on ourselves....

"gearing up" is half the fun of airsoft.... while we put on our uniforms, vests, load up on spare ammo and secondary weapons, ready our primary weapons (lock and load, ladies and gents!), we imagine ourselves as members of special, elite forces out to save the world....

hmmm.... when i was young and played basketball, volleyball, tennis, etc.... putting on a sports uniform didn't give me the same "high" as with airsoft.... :rolleyes:

a lot of newbies ask: what BDU camo is best?

there's NO best camo for every environment our planet can offer.... but let me reiterate some piece of advice that i gave in another thread....

first, get a BDU that is rip-stop.... take a close look at the fabric.... if you see the cloth like there's a mesh (criss-cross), then that's probably rip-stop.... as the name suggests, the fabric will resist further ripping.... in ordinary fabric, a small rip will get bigger.... so when you buy a BDU, see to it that it's rip-stop....

second, don't go for philippine military BDUs, too many legal hassles.... there's a lot more patterns to choose from, so better go for foreign-based camo like marpat, multicam, acupat, tigerstripes, desert....

(imho, phil army BDU is really good at night.... i got one, but i can't use it anymore, )

btw, don't limit yourself to the camo BDUs.... you can go afghan, contractual, flight suit, maong pants and jacket, etc....

my advice is to try and get at least two or more uniforms for different environs....

for example, i got woodland for "general purpose" fighting.... i got black RAID for CQB.... i got desert tricolor for MOUT.... i got marpat for jungle.... i got white arctic just for the heck of it -- i'm the Polar Bear!

so when you go out to buy a BDU, go out to have some fun!

watch "Black Hawk Down" (BHD) and "Tears of the Sun" to get some ideas on what you want to look like.... get some ghillie if you want to be The Sniper.... buy a WW II uniform and GI helmet and a Thompson sub-machine gun and join the mission in "Saving Private Ryan".... or use your M-16 vietnam and suit yourself up like "Platoon" or "Full Metal Jacket".... go topless and show off your "six pack" like Rambo

in the end, it's all about having fun....

so don't go around asking "what should i buy? what should i buy? what's the best camo in the world?"

rather, ask yourself: what do i want to look like?

Airsoft pellets are spherical projectiles used in Airsoft models. Typically made of plastic, they typically range in size from 5.98 to 6.00 mm in diameter, though some long range models use 8 mm pellets. Often called "BBs", after the ammunition for BB guns (which are actually smaller and made of metal).

COMPOSITION:
In addition to (crude oil derived) plastic, starch-based biodegradable plastic, metal or graphite-coated and solid-steel pellets are also available. Pellets are most commonly found in white and yellow, but since the plastics most commonly used are readily colored, many other colors are produced. Such colors include black, green, blue, orange, gold, red, and phosphorescent colors. Non-plastic pellets are generally the color of the material used for the exterior of the pellet.

VARIETIES OF PELLETS

BIODEGRADABLES
Biodegradable are available, and are often required by outdoor fields where sweeping up is not an option, conventional pellets are a pollutant of the environment, most ordinary pellets have a mineral center coated with types of plastic that degrade over hundreds of years, if at all. Biodegradable pellets are made of various types of resin, often developed for the agricultural industry, and in the better makes are certified as compostable.

There is a mixture of degradable processes being used, such as soil microbes and photosensitive degradation. Biodegradable pellet development is now producing ammo with all the characteristics of the best of the conventional, with homogeneous resin construction.

Various EEC countries now only permit biodegradable pellet ammunition to be used, and many land agents are also insisting on their use on rented land. Airsoft worldwide is very late in coming to universal usage of biodegradable products which paintball has long achieved with its munitions.

TRACERS
Glow-in-the-dark pellets, known colloquially as tracer, can be used in conjunction with a device that "charges" the pellets by flashing them with a burst of visible light on leaving the barrel, so that they remain luminescent in flight for use during nocturnal games/operations. This tracer unit is usually hidden from view, often disguised as a suppressor (silencer) or is included inside the magazine. There are also biodegradable Glow-in-the-dark pellets available.

PAINT BALL
Paint-filled pellets are also available, called markerballs, which are very similar to those used by paintball. Airsoft models equipped with the hop-up projectile stabilizing system are not able to use these, as the thin shells are liable to break in the barrel, soiling it with paint. These special pellets are also incompatible with Airsoft models using mechanized feed systems, such as high capacity magazines, for the same reason. Paintballs generally are bad for the gun and often cause jams or other internal problems. With some companies, the use of paintballs voids the airsoft gun's warranty. However, they have recently invented 6mm paintballs, made specifically for the use of airsoft. These six millimeter paintballs are only usable for some airsoft guns, though. It is highly recommend to not use them as they will not work well. These rounds have a tendency to burst and/or rupture in the barrel and action.

NON-SPHERICAL
There have also been airsoft models that use non-spherical pellets. The best known of these is the Asahi "Blade Bullet", which are now extremely difficult to find and quite expensive to buy. These were designed to be shot from the short-lived Asahi M700 and M40 premium grade rifles, which were produced in 1993. Compatibility with other airsoft guns is highly limited, especially due to their incompatibility with hop-up features.

PELLET WEIGHTS
Pellet weight is an important factor when choosing pellets. The pellet's weight influences several aspects of pellet performance:

Velocity
Lighter pellets achieve higher velocities, but are more prone to influence from external factors like wind. Lighter pellets also decelerate (lose velocity) faster than heavier pellets.
Trajectory
The curvature of a projectile (trajectory) determines its range and heavier pellets tend to have slower velocities which result in much more curved trajectories. This can be negated in part by the use of a hop-up.
Hardware
Heavier pellets may require a more powerful airsoft gun and often necessitates upgraded springs and other gun parts.
A player's choice of pellet weight is governed by their gaming style, airsoft gun (internals), game location (in/outdoor), high/low range and fps regulations.


6 mm PELLET WEIGHTS AND THEIR USAGE
0.12 g - Used by all low grade weapons such as some spring pistols (which can use .20) and mini electrics. High velocity and low stability. Not to be used in high end AEGs such as Tokyo Marui and Classic Army
0.15 g - Same uses as 0.12 g. Uncommon. Not to be used in high end Automatic Electric Guns (A.E.G.s) such as Tokyo Marui and Classic Army
0.16 g - Essentially the same as the 0.15 g pellets. Very uncommon.
0.20 g - Standard weight for most weapons. AEGs use these or slightly heavier pellets
0.23 g - Heavier pellets for AEGs. Blends speed of 0.20 g with range and accuracy of 0.25 g. Made popular by Tsunami Airsoft
0.24 g - An oddity. Only known manufacturers are Airstrike (a subsidiary of Daisy) and Crosman
0.25 g - Heaviest weight for standard AEGs, blowback and spring guns. Tokyo Marui standard AEG, gas, and spring guns are set at the factory for 0.25 gram BB's, and they usually include a package of 200 of these with the gun.
0.28 g - For upgraded AEGs or sniper rifles. Significantly cheaper than 0.30 g but yields similar performance
0.29 g - Maruzen Super Grandmaster BBs, designed for their Air Precision Shooting series of guns. One of the most precisely ground and accurate BBs available[verification needed], but cost more than other alternatives. These also can come in aluminum versions, which will hurt more than plastic.
0.30 g - Standard weight for most sniper rifles. Western Arms pellets for their gas blowback pistol series. Uncommon.
0.36 g - Heavier pellets for sniper rifles. Very slow but have high stability.
0.43 g - For the highest level of upgrades in spring and gas sniper rifles. Usually graphite coated.
0.88 g - Possibly the heaviest type of BB available. Usually made of steel and comes with a polished finish. Rarely used and often hard to find.

8 mm pellet weights
0.27 g - Low weight
0.34 g (Normal)- Standard weight
0.35 g (Biodegradable)- Standard weight
0.45 g - Heaviest weight


HOP UP--with BERNOULLI's PRINCIPLE
The term Hop-up describes the back-spin put on airsoft pellets and BB's to increase their range and (vertical) accuracy via Bernoulli's principle. Hop-up acts somewhat like the rifling on the barrel of a firearm, but without the increase in horizontal accuracy. Also, being light-weight, airsoft pellets are still affected by wind when fired.

Airsoft hop-up devices apply a backspin to the pellet so that the pressure force acts on the pellet opposite to the direction that gravity is pulling it. This causes the pellet to fall less over a given distance than it would without the spin applied to it.



In airsoft guns this is often implemented as a rubber piece at the rear of the barrel that is thicker at the top of the barrel than the bottom. As the pellet moves past this piece it tends to roll, inducing a backspin. This is occasionally adjustable so that the effect can be tuned to suit the weight or speed of the pellet, and each player's preference.

How it all began

What is Airsoft?

Airsoft is a unique and exciting sport being played worldwide with similarities to the popular skirmish game called Paintball. Airsoft weapons are exact replicas of real assault weapons. The difference is that airsoft uses 6mm soft plastic, ceramic or biodegrable BB pellets fired from air-powered guns. Airsoft guns either electric, gas or spring power. Airsoft combat is a growing hobby among firearms enthusiasts and recreational soldiers both young and old. Combining the technical skill required to operate or 'run' a gun, with the tactical and strategic skills required on the battlefield to attain victory, Airsoft combat allows a safe experience of high-adrenaline, head-to-head combat that is the closest many will get to automatic weapons and wargaming. Airsoft was founded on the basis of realistic weapons, both in terms of function and appearance, combined with the high-energy sport of organized paintball.

History of Airsoft

The sport of Airsoft started in Japan during the early 1980s. It was illegal to own firearms in Japan but there was a significant interest in them, so a company started producing spring-powered replicas of firearms that fired 6mm, plastic BBs. The market emerged for a new, low-pressure airgun that could be owned an operated in an enclosed area and with little danger to the user or bystanders. The invention that filled this gap was called Airsoft or SoftAir in the United States, and became an instant hit with gun enthusiasts in the early 1980's. During the latter part of the 1980s the sport migrated to neighboring countries such as Hong Kong, Korea, Taiwan, and the Philippines. Airsoft started appearing in North America and Europe during the middle of the 1990s but it is only during the last 2-3 years that the sport started thriving in these venues.

As Airsoft began to gain popularity, many people were eager to organize events for combat. Due to the inexpensive operation and safe nature of these guns, an early form of 'skirmishing' grew as did the number and type of weapons available to players. At first, the only weapons available were spring-piston pistols which fired a 6mm round plastic BB, and are still widely available to this day. Based on a simple mechanism of spring compression being released to power an air piston in a cylinder, this method of BB propulsion became an industry standard and lead to the development of many off-shoots of the hobby.

Early Airsoft guns produced low pressure and this, combined with their low-tolerance smooth bore, caused the guns to fire erratically and inaccurately. Due to the lightweight 6mm round pellets, range was particularly short. Furthermore, many variants of spring-piston handguns sold in the U.S. by Daisy required the storage of individual round BB's in the nose of plastic 'cartridges' which were loaded into a magazine before firing. Since the gun ejected the 'casings' as the slide was released to be re-cocked, these casings were difficult to handle quickly and load reliably. While providing for loading and cycling much like their steel counterparts, these expended cases were easily lost, and soon the gun's utility was questionable. Early revolvers of this type had individual 'cartridges' with internal springs which were compressed prior to loading and powered a skirted 6mm pellet. These early forms of 'SoftAir' imports were eventually discontinued by Daisy in the early 1980's, and have not been marketed since then.

While the sales and popularity of 'SoftAir' in the United States was coming to a close in the mid- 1980's, Airsoft sales boomed overseas in the oriental market. Enthusiasts who did not have legal access to firearms in these countries were scooping up Airsoft weapons as they became available. Spring-piston rifles soon became standard fare, as they could accommodate larger piston/cylinder combinations and a longer barrel, resulting in better range and accuracy for wargaming. Muzzle velocity increased to around 200-250 feet-per-second, and range and power was extended. In the course of marketing, the selection of Airsoft weapons grew larger and encompassed steps forward in function and utility. With these advances came more organized skirmishes which met the demand for coordinated strategic movements and elaborate playing fields. The term 'skirmish' was originated to describe group meetings to conduct safe, organized Airsoft combat.

The next major step in the development of the Airsoft industry came with the introduction of gas-operated 'blowback' systems. These guns were an evolutionary step beyond their spring-cocker predecessors and allowed for even greater range and accuracy while making a leap forward in realism. These 'gas-blowback' rifles used compressed air (commonly Freon or FLON) stored in an airtank remotely attached to the gun to provide propulsion and reloading. This mechanism, while very similar to common paintball guns, also made available full-automatic operation to mimic the machineguns they were designed to replicate. This one achievement became a major driving force in modern Airsoft combat as we know it today. The only drawbacks were the remote airtank and connections required for operation, and the nasty tendancy for these guns to 'freeze-up' when fired repeatedly, reducing both range and accuracy.

These gas-blowback rifles were the weapon of choice for Airsoft combat, as their range and rate-of-fire allowed them to be easily carried onto the battlefield and brought to bear against opponents. Full-automatic operation spiked the interest of individuals who were looking for a cheaper alternative to the escalating National Firearms Act (in the U.S.) and drew many newcomers to this hobby. The expense and ease of owning and operating an Airsoft gun brought many new participants to the field. Although the airtanks were large and cumbersome while attached to the gun by a coiled rubber hose, this method of propulsion still exists to this day.

The advances in technology increased in frequency as the market grew in Asian countries. The introduction of HOP-UP mechanisms on gas-blowback handguns gave extended range to the BB at the same muzzle velocity and further increased accuracy at these longer ranges. This invention soon made it's way to gas-blowback rifles and machine-pistols, and today, is found on nearly every Airsoft gun manufactured.

With further miniaturization of gas control systems and smaller air bottles, gas-blowback handguns were next to surface and extended the range, power and accuracy of gas-operation in a hand-held, easily portable weapon. By charging the air tank contained within the removable magazine of the gun, many shots could be fired, and additional magazines could be swapped for tactical reloading. These guns were capable of repeating fire by routing the gasses against a baffle plate to manipulate the slide in semi-automatic pistols. This performs two purposes; the first, to propel the BB down the muzzle, and the second to cycle the action, much like a real firearm, which then loads the next round, and proceeds to prepare the weapon for continued firing. While these guns seemed to suffer less from air-expansion freezing, their rate of fire was limited to the air capacity of the small magazines. Players must often resort to heating these magazines before a game (to increase gas pressure), and carrying many of them to counteract the limited capacity of gas and BB's.

The next generation of Airsoft guns came in the early- to mid- 1990's in the form of Auto-Electric Guns, or AEG's. These long guns took a new direction in design, but returned to the time-tested method of spring-piston operation. This time, the spring-piston would be operated by a geared electric motor which would draw power from an on-board battery, and removed the necessity of air-charging or remote airtanks. This provided for a self-contained, select-fire airgun capable of semi-automatic or full-automatic fire which duplicated the originals exactly. While the system is still in it's infancy, the mechanism is fairly large and is commonly housed in full-sized battle rifles and sub-machineguns. Auto-Electric handguns have yet to be built due to the size of the battery and associated electrical wiring and switches.

These AEG's, as they're commonly called, swept the market and soon, many manufacturers were copying the design and introducing new models for consumers. The major selling points of AEG's were their exact likeness to the actual rifles, retention of the BB's in a removable magazine, and ease of battery operation, which could be replaced quickly in the field. The magazines carried anywhere from 30-50 rounds for submachine guns with an added capacity for up to 200 rounds in special 'High-Capacity' versions. This facet allowed for greater realism during combat by requiring the participant to manage ammunition and perform tactical reloads during combat.

This new wave of Airsoft guns became the pinnacle of modern Airsoft combat, and with good reason. The full-automatic mode in most AEG's fires at approximately the same rate as the real firearm, which adds tremendously to the functionality and realism of these guns. Airsoft players found easier and more effective means toward victory on the playing field.

In time, many distributors began to sponsor organized events for their customers and the fully-matured version of modern skirmishing was born. Organized Airsoft combat became a pastime for weekend camping trips, and has been making steady progress on converting players from the costly and messy sport of paintball.


Text by
Airsoft Club Commando

Shemagh Wrap Instructions

Step 1:
Fold the shemagh into a triangle. Wrap it around the back and over the top of your head, with the folded edge across your forehead, making sure that about two-thirds of the material is on your left. The right end ought to be long enough to come to your chest.



Step 2:
Use your left hand to pinch the shemagh about 3 or 4 inches from the folded edge and let the edge hang forward.



Step 3:
Let go of the right end. Using your left hand, hold the edge of the shemagh next to your left cheek and hold it near your left cheekbone. After you do this, use your right hand to pull the left end of the shemagh across your face, over your nose.



Step 4:
Continue to wrap the shemagh around your face and head until you get it back over your left shoulder. Grip the right tail and hold it to keep from pulling the shemagh off your head as you wrap. Work your hands down toward the ends as you wrap.



Step 5:
Pull the shemagh as tight as needed to feel comfortable. At the end of the process, take both ends and, somewhere near your right temple, tie them in a knot. A square knot will secure the shemagh adequately.




Note! Don't be discouraged if it takes a few tries to get it comfortable. Tying the shemagh is as much an exercise in patience as it is an art. When done correctly, the wrap covers your face from sun, sand, and wind, making it effective protection in the summer as well as warm winter headgear.

THE SHEMAGH READY FOR ACTION!




SOURCE:
Brigade Quartermasters, Ltd.
__________________

Airsoft pellets are typically made of plastic and are almost always 6 mm (5.98mm) spheres. Pellets of a given size come in different weights ranging from 0.12 to 0.43 g. In addition to standard plastic pellets, starch-based biodegradable, metal coated, and graphite coated (often used by snipers), steel pellets are also available. Pellets other than 6 mm, 0.12 g, 0.20 g, or 0.25 g plastic or biodegradable pellets are not commonly used outside of Japan. For 0.43 g BB's, you will need a powerful airsoft gun, or get upgrades on your gun so that it can effectively shoot this heavy BB.

Glow-in-the-dark tracer pellets are also used in conjunction with a special device that "charges" the pellets up by flashing it with a quick burst of UV light prior to firing so that they remain luminescent in flight for use during nocturnal games/operations.

Tracer BBs have been made and leave a white streak behind the BBs path while it's airborne to see where your BBs are hitting for better accuracy.

There have also been guns made that shoot aspherical pellets. The best known of these is the Asahi "Blade Bullet", which are now extremely difficult to find and quite expensive to buy. These were designed to be shot from the short-lived Asahi M700 and M40 premium grade rifles, which were produced in 1993. Compatibility with other airsoft guns is highly limited, especially due to their incompatibility with hop-up features.

Paint pellets are available but are incompatible with guns with hop-up features as the hop-up will break the pellet in the gun. Paint is very unpopular with airsofters because it tends to stain gear and clothes.

Airsoft pellets are typically made of plastic and are almost always 6 mm (5.98mm) spheres. Pellets of a given size come in different weights ranging from 0.12 to 0.43 g. In addition to standard plastic pellets, starch-based biodegradable, metal coated, and graphite coated (often used by snipers), steel pellets are also available. Pellets other than 6 mm, 0.12 g, 0.20 g, or 0.25 g plastic or biodegradable pellets are not commonly used outside of Japan. For 0.43 g BB's, you will need a powerful airsoft gun, or get upgrades on your gun so that it can effectively shoot this heavy BB.

Glow-in-the-dark tracer pellets are also used in conjunction with a special device that "charges" the pellets up by flashing it with a quick burst of UV light prior to firing so that they remain luminescent in flight for use during nocturnal games/operations.

Tracer BBs have been made and leave a white streak behind the BBs path while it's airborne to see where your BBs are hitting for better accuracy.

There have also been guns made that shoot aspherical pellets. The best known of these is the Asahi "Blade Bullet", which are now extremely difficult to find and quite expensive to buy. These were designed to be shot from the short-lived Asahi M700 and M40 premium grade rifles, which were produced in 1993. Compatibility with other airsoft guns is highly limited, especially due to their incompatibility with hop-up features.

Paint pellets are available but are incompatible with guns with hop-up features as the hop-up will break the pellet in the gun. Paint is very unpopular with airsofters because it tends to stain gear and clothes.

6 mm pellet weights and their usage

* 0.12 g - Used by some gas and spring weapons. High velocity and low stability. Not to be used in high end AEGs such as Tokyo Marui and Classic Army.

* 0.15 g - Same uses as 0.12 g. Uncommon. Not to be used in high end AEGs such as Tokyo Marui and Classic Army.

* 0.20 g - Standard weight for most weapons. AEGs uses these or slightly heavier pellets.

* 0.23 g - Heavier pellets for AEGs. Blends speed of 0.20 g with range and accuracy of 0.25 g.

* 0.25 g - Heaviest weight for standard AEGs, blowback and spring guns. For some AEGs, you will usually need an upgrade to effectively fire 0.25 gram BB's. Tokyo Marui standard AEG, gas, and spring weapons use 0.25 gram BB's. For Tokyo Marui airsoft, they usually send 200 of these with one of their AEGs and spring guns.

* 0.28 g - Standard weight for highly upgraded AEGs or sniper rifles. Significantly cheaper than .30g , but yields similar performance.

* 0.30 g - Standard weight for most sniper rifles. Western Arms pellets for their gas blowback pistol series. Uncommon.

* 0.36 g - Heavier pellets for sniper rifles. Very slow but have high stability.

* 0.43 g - For the highest level of upgrades in spring and gas sniper rifles. Usually graphite coated.
Reply

Hope this will help to all nooblets including myself! hehehe

To all my fellow brothers this might help.

This article removes most of the guesswork when you are upgrading your AEG. Provided some FPS baseline so that you'll know what to expect from a particular set-up. Also included some useful tips that would help you decide what to put inside your gearbox (mechbox) to improve durability and lifespan.

::::::SPRINGS: (Approximated Settled Spring FPS using .20gBB)

Stock Gun (brand new gun): 270-290 FPS (depends on Brand/Manufacturer)

Stage1 Upgrade: M100 / SP100 / PDI120% = 330-350 FPS

Stage 2 Upgrade: M120 / SP120 / PDI170% = 390-410 FPS [stable with .20gBB ]

Stage 3 Upgrade: M130 / SP130 / PDI190% / PDI210% = 440-460 FPS [ok with .20gBBmin but more stable with .23gBB]

Stage 4 Upgrade: M140 / SP140 / PDI240% = 470-490 FPS [ok with .23gBBmin but more stable .25gBB ]

Stage 5 Upgrade: M150 / SP150 / PDI270% = 510-530FPS [acceptable with .25gBB but would suggest .28gBB for better accuracy]

Stage 6 Upgrade: M160 / SP160 = 550-580 FPS [.30g/.36gBB accurate]

Stage 7 Upgrade: M170 / SP170 = 580-600+ FPS [.36g/.43gBB accurate]


::::Accuracy troubleshooting in terms of BB weight

1.BB hits everything but the target
Cause:BB too light for the FPS rating
2.BB drop without reaching expected range
Cause:BB too heavy for your guns power rating

:::::Gears
Gears have no effect whatsoever on your power rating, it only affects "Rate Of Fire" ROF
Common gear-to-spring set-ups
High Speed/ Fast Gears: Can handle from stock springs up to M100/SP100/PDI120% (Usual replacement for stock gears0
Torque Up Gears: Can handle M130/SP130/PDI190%-210% or lower spring ratings
Torque Up Gears or Super Torque Up Gears: Can handle M140/SP140/PDI240%
Ultra Torque Up Gears: Can handle M150/Sp150/PDI270%
Ultra Torque Up Gears and Infinite Torque Up Gears: Can handle M160/SP160 (Will need some for Version 2 Gearbox/Mechbox clearancing to fit)
Infinite Torque Up Gears: Can Handle M170/SP170 Springs (Will need some for Version 2 Gearbox/Mechbox clearancing to fit)

:::::Gear Set Life Spans and Durability
Stock Gears: They are low cost and provides good rate of fire. But are just casted from "weak" alloy so they are not as durable as steel gears. They can handle 130/SP130/PDI190%-210% springs but only on a limited time (depends on use) before wearing out (the Sector gears gives in first and will damage the piston body in the process).

Flat Gears (Torque Up and Super Torque Up): Cheaper than helical gears and a lot easier to shim but are a bit on the noisy side. Durable enough becaue they are made of steel (but manufacturer also plays a big part, have seen defective/weak batches).

Helical Gears (Torque Up and Super Torque Up): A bit expensive than the flat gear version and a bit tricky to shim, but would provide a smoother (sound) operation compared to their flat gear counterpart.

note: text taken from airsoftfaqs.com website
Reply With Quote

1. Read the users manual before playing. Each AEG will have different operating characteristics.
2. After playing, remove the magazine and switch to single shot mode to release the spring within the mechbox. Finally disconnect the battery ( Fig 1 ). Clean and lubricate your AEG before storage, as needed.
3. Clean the inner barrel ( Fig 2 )and spray some silicone onto the hop up after heavy use.

FIG 1:
FIG 2:
FIG 3:

Gas operate pistol basic maintenance

1. Read the user manual before playing, each pistol will have different operating characteristics.
2. After playing, clean any dirt off the mechanisms, release the remaining gas in the magazine ( Fig 4 ), In the valve ( Fig 5 ), try to spray some silicone on the inflow valve and outflow valve ( Fig 6 ) .
3. Stock pistols should only use HFC 134a Gas!
4. Modified Pistols with improved internals can use Top Gas or Green Gas.
5. When filling gas magazines, the proper way to do it is with the gas inverted. See user manual for your gas pistol for illustrations.
6. A 2 - 3 second charge with any type of gas is sufficient ( Too gas much will damage the magazine and/or the seals and thus cause leakage.)
7. After repeated use the magazine may be very cold. This will cause a decrease in power due to the gas not expanding correctly, please wait 5 - 10 minutes to allow the magazine to warm up.

FIG 4:
FIG 5:
FIG 6:
FIG 7:

Pressing trigger with no response? ( MARUI )

1. First, inspect the motor, has it overheated ( if motor overheated, please allow the unit to cool sufficiently )? If not ( Fig 8 ), try a different battery, preferably a known fully charged battery. If you can detect resistence within the motor like it's trying to turn or can hear faint humming noises, disconnect the battery immediately to prevent further damage to the AEG.
2. If motor diagnostic turned up negative like the motor was dead. Please check the battery connections( Fig 9 ) and motor connections ( Fig 10 ). Also check the fuse and see if it has burned out. ( Fig 11 ).
3. If everything checks out from above and it is still "dead". Then there could be other problems inside the AEG.

FIG 8:
FIG 9:
FIG 10:
FIG 11:

What should you do when AEG's are jammed with a BB. ( MARUI )

1. Use the unjamming tools that came with you gun. Insert it into the barrel (Fig 12 )and push gently til the jammed BB comes loose. Afterwards reverse the tool and attach a clean strip of cloth, spray lubricant/cleaners on the cloth and then insert into barrel to clear dust or dirt from the barrel( Fig 13 ). Spray some silicone thru it and wipe residuals one more time.
2. Don't use any poor quality BB's, especially in tight bore barrels!
3. If the AEG still will not feed or fire. There could be a problem inside the unit or maybe in the gearbox. If you are new to Airsoft or not experienced in repairing Airsoft items, please send the item to one of our designated repair facilities.

FIG 12:
FIG 13:

Proper use of AEG's

1. Excessively long firing in full auto will cause premature wear inside the gearbox. ( Do not empty a hicap in one long burst! )
2. Firing in bursts is better for your gearbox, squeeze trigger straight back, do not push trigger sideways for it will damage the gear box.
3. After playing, please put AEG in safe mode ( Fig 16 ).

FIG 14:
FIG 15:
FIG 16:

SOURCE: WGC Shop

sensei mask


balaclava


goggles


vforce mask


jt mask


delta helmet


neoprene mask

Don't reuse BBs
Number one rule: Don't reuse BBs no matter how good they look. BBs may deform when fired out of an AEG - and will definitely deform and sometimes chip and crack when colliding with targets. Using BBs that are not completely round or that have chips and cracks may rip the hop-up rubber seal and damage the hop-up mechanism. BBs that you pick up off the ground may also be coated with a thin layer of dirt - which again may scratch the hop-up seal and barrel.

Cleaning the Barrel
One of the most common factors leading to the loss of distance and accuracy comes from dust and dirt buildup within the inner barrel. Once dirt builds up, it interferes and slows down the BB as it travels through the barrel, leaving you with less power and most likely less accuracy. Cleaning is a must if you play a lot and doing so takes only several minutes. Marui includes a cleaning rod with each of its AEGs. All you need to do is stick a piece of cotton into the "needle eye" of the cleaning rod, spray some silicon onto the piece of cotton, and then stick it down the barrel, stroking it up and down several times to ensure that the cotton ball reaches all parts of the barrel. The most important thing to note before you do this is : set the hop-up to the minimum setting. If you leave the hop-up "on" and you try to force the cotton ball down the barrel right into the hop-up assembly, it may cause irreversible damage. So remember, hop-off before you clean. Another tip is you should turn the hop-up off when storing the gun for long periods of time (more than several days).

Silicon spray all critical parts
The manual illustrates this to some extent but you should spray some silicon onto moving parts and also into the BB feeding tube (the part where your magazine meets the gun...or, where the BBs are fed up into the hop-up unit. Doing this periodically will ensure you don't get BB jams at critical moments

Tighten screws
In the heat of play, some screws may loosen and if you don't tighten them, you may end up with lost parts after you return from a game. Critical screws to check for include those that hold the front sights and muzzle (especially so on the MP5 and G3 series AEGs), the screw that fastens the selector switch (again common on the MP5 and G3 series), and screws on the grip butt-plate. It's also a good idea to ensure any screw you can find on the gun is firmly screwed in (although don't screw them in too hard otherwise you may strip them). We're told by our customers that the front sight retainer screw on the MP5 A4 / A5 comes loose easily, as does the large screws that hold the M4A1 upper receiver handle to the lower receiver.

Motor tuning
The motor in AEGs is precisely positioned so that it mates correctly with the gearbox gears. The way this is tuned is done by adjusting the hex nut on the bottom of your grip butt-plate. You will notice that there is a dab of red wax-like material on the nut - this was applied by Marui at the factory to prevent the screw from unwinding itself. If in the unlucky event that this hex screw becomes loose and unwinds itself, the motor will shift downwards within the grip and come away from the gears. If this problem becomes severe enough, then you may find yourself with stripped gears. We would recommend you don't tamper with this screw unless you are sure that it has come loose. Visual inspection may help identify this but the best way is by listening to the motor. To a trained ear, it is very easy to tell - a shifted motor will often allow much more play in the gears and your shots might sound much more hollow and the motor takes longer to wind up and get a shot off. To find out if your motor is loose, you can also try this:
- Shoot semi-auto for 2 to 3 shots, and then for the fourth shot...
- Pull the trigger and then release it very very quickly
If you hear the motor wind but the spring does not cycle and it does not get a shot off, then you might have a loose motor
If on the other hand you can't release the trigger fast enough before the spring cycles and gets a shot off, then you're fine.
Of course some of you might have super quick fingers and it is possible to fail this test but yet still have a perfectly positioned motor. Basic rule of thumb is you pull the trigger back and then let go one in a deliberate and smooth motion without any jerks in your finger. If you don't get a shot off before you release the trigger, then adjust and reseat the motor by tightening the hex screw (by turning it clockwise).
Be careful not to over tighten as you will then overheat the motor and seize your gears as well.

Again, if you don't know what you're doing, don't tamper with the hex screw. Over 99% of AEGs go through their life without ever needing this operation. If you have a modified AEG or if you have disassembled the grip butt-plate at some point in time, then this may apply to you.

Decompress the spring after each game and before storing
This is the most basic rule that everyone should follow. Due to the design of AEGs, it is important that you shoot your AEG in semi-auto mode for about 2 to 3 shots before storing it. Doing this will ensure that the spring is full decompressed! If you simply walk off a battlefield after much full-auto fire, and then store the gun for the days - chances are that your spring is in a partially or fully compressed state. Springs that are held in their compressed state for an extended amount of time loose their strength and you'll get a decrease in power the next time you use your AEG. Even worse, the stress caused by the spring on the gears may snap off some parts while in storage and the next time you take your AEG out, it may not fire. So remember to decompress before you store, or for that matter, every time you're going to put the gun down for a rest!

Note to PSG1 owners - this does not apply to you. The default position for the spring in the PSG1 is in a compressed state - meaning every time you pull the trigger, it releases the spring from the compressed state, fires off the shot, and recompresses the spring - ready for the next shot. That's why there is NO delay when you pull the trigger on a PSG1. To decompress the spring for storage on a PSG1, refer to the manual which describes the little spring decompressing lever next to the trigger.

Follow these basic rules and your AEG will last you a long time. Hope this short column clears up some of the confusion!


SOURCE: Redwolf Airsoft